As the wheels of the plane touched down on the sun-kissed tarmac of Larnaca International Airport, a rush of memories flooded my senses. I was no longer the eager twenty-something backpacker who first set foot on this island two decades ago. Now, in my 40s, Cyprus felt both familiar and delightfully new.
I recall my younger self being struck by the immediate warmth of the Cypriot sun, a stark contrast to the chilly rain I’d left behind in London. My first breath of Cypriot air was laced with a mix of sea salt and blooming flowers – a scent that, to this day, instantly calms my city-worn nerves.
Outside the airport, the iconic palm trees swayed in welcome, their shadows dancing on the concrete, just as I remembered. However, this time, I wasn’t just here for the adventure; I was on a journey to reconnect with the land that once felt like a fleeting summer romance but had lingered in my heart for years.
As I grabbed my suitcase, a smile tugged at my lips, thinking of the adventures that awaited. Age might have added a few lines to my face and wisdom to my gaze, but the youthful excitement of discovering Cyprus was very much alive and rekindled.
The Allure of Cyprus
Cyprus, an island nestled in the Eastern Mediterranean, is much more than its pristine beaches and azure waters. It’s an enchanting tapestry of history, nature, and flavours that invites every traveller to immerse themselves in its depths.
One cannot speak of Cyprus without delving into its rich history. Ancient ruins whisper tales of bygone eras where Greek goddesses like Aphrodite were believed to have risen from the sea, and Roman emperors left their indelible mark. Each corner of the island, from the tombs in Paphos to the medieval castles dotting the coastline, narrates stories of conquests, love, and resilience. Walking through the cobbled streets of its ancient cities is like stepping back in time, feeling the weight and wisdom of millennia under your feet.
Yet, it’s not just history that makes Cyprus a traveller’s dream. The island boasts a diverse landscape that seems to change with every twist and turn. The Troodos Mountains stretch skyward, with their pine-clad slopes offering cool respite from the sun and trails that beckon hikers and nature lovers. Contrastingly, the Cape Greco National Park showcases the rugged beauty of sea cliffs and hidden caves, perfect for adventurers and romantics alike.
And then, there’s the food. Cypriot cuisine is a gastronomic delight, reflecting its multicultural history. Every meal is a celebration here. The meze, a plethora of small dishes ranging from halloumi cheese to succulent lamb koftas, is an invitation to savour a variety of flavours in one sitting. Paired with the island’s robust wines or the famed Commandaria, a sweet dessert wine believed to be the world’s oldest named wine, every meal turns into a feast for the senses.
In essence, Cyprus is an island that captivates not just with its scenic beauty but with the depth of its soul. It’s a place where the past and present coalesce seamlessly, where nature’s wonders sit side by side with urban charms, and where every bite of food tells a story. That, in its entirety, is the irresistible allure of Cyprus.
Day 1: Landing in Larnaca
Morning: Touchdown at Larnaca International Airport
The first sensation that hits you upon descending from the plane is the gentle warmth of the Cypriot sun. Larnaca International Airport, though bustling as most international hubs are, carries an air of Mediterranean charm that instantly makes you feel at ease.
First Impressions:
Stepping out, I was greeted by the sight of swaying palm trees set against a backdrop of clear blue skies – a picturesque sight that hints at the adventures awaiting in this sun-soaked island nation. There’s a unique blend of the modern and the traditional here. The airport itself is sleek and contemporary, but beyond its confines, you catch glimpses of quaint towns and the shimmering expanse of the Mediterranean Sea. The chatter of locals, blending with the excited murmurs of tourists, creates a welcoming symphony of anticipation.
Tips on Transportation:
- Car Rentals: One of the most flexible ways to explore Cyprus is by renting a car. There are several car rental agencies within the airport, and I’d advise booking in advance to ensure you get a vehicle that suits your needs. Remember, in Cyprus, they drive on the left!
- Public Transport: Larnaca’s public transport system is quite efficient. Buses run frequently from the airport to the city centre and other major destinations. They’re budget-friendly and an eco-friendly way to travel.
- Taxis and Ride-Shares: Taxis are available round-the-clock outside the airport. While they provide convenience, ensure you either agree on a fare beforehand or ensure the meter is running. Alternatively, ride-sharing apps like Bolt operate in Larnaca, offering another reliable transportation option.
- Airport Shuttles: Several hotels in Larnaca offer shuttle services for their guests. If you’ve made a reservation, it’s worthwhile to check with your accommodation if they provide this service.
As the wheels of my chosen transport rolled smoothly onto Cypriot roads, the adventures of the next ten days beckoned enticingly. Larnaca, with its coastal charm and historic allure, was ready to unfold its tales.
Day 2: Delving into Nicosia
Morning: Stepping Back in Time – Old Nicosia and its Dividing Line
Waking up with the sun casting a gentle hue over Nicosia’s skyline, I knew it was going to be a day immersed in history and culture. Old Nicosia beckoned with its labyrinth of narrow streets, ancient walls, and a palpable sense of stories untold. Walking along the Green Line, the buffer zone that divides the city – and in many ways, the island itself – is a poignant experience. It’s a reminder of the island’s tumultuous past but also stands testament to its resilience.
From ancient Venetian walls to the bustling Buyuk Han – once a caravanserai and now a cultural hub filled with shops and cafes – the heart of Cyprus pulses in these old streets. As you navigate through, you’ll find an array of churches, mosques, and other architectural marvels narrating the rich tapestry of cultures that have shaped Nicosia.
Afternoon: Modern Nicosia – Shopping and Café Culture
The contrast becomes apparent as you move from the historic core to the bustling avenues of modern Nicosia. Tree-lined streets are dotted with fashionable boutiques, art galleries, and contemporary cafes where locals and tourists alike indulge in the simple pleasure of sipping coffee and watching the world go by.
Ledra Street is a shopper’s haven, offering everything from international brands to local handicrafts. As for the café culture, it’s contagious! You’ll find yourself losing track of time, savouring delicate pastries and robust Cypriot coffee, watching as business folks, students, and artists converge in animated conversations.
Evening: A Gastronomic Journey and Nicosia Nightlife
As evening approached, the tantalising aromas from local tavernas lured me in. Nicosia’s culinary scene is a delightful blend of Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern influences. From meze platters teeming with flavours to grilled halloumi and succulent lamb kleftiko, every dish is a revelation.
With a satisfied palate, it was time to experience Nicosia’s nightlife. The city comes alive in a different hue as locals and tourists gather at rooftop bars, traditional pubs, and chic nightclubs. From soulful live music to energetic DJ sets, Nicosia’s nights are as vibrant as its days.
As I retired to bed, the melodies of Nicosia’s night still echoing in my ears, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the blend of the old and new, the history and modernity that this city graciously offered.
Day 4: The Mysteries of Paphos
Morning: Timeless Echoes – Tomb of the Kings
The morning sun was just beginning to cast its golden glow when I set out to explore the ancient necropolis, the Tomb of the Kings. Despite its name, no kings are buried here, but the magnificence of the tombs, some adorned with Doric pillars, gives the place an undeniable regal aura. Walking amongst these underground tombs, I felt the weight of ages past. The silence was palpable, punctuated only by the whispering winds that seemed to carry tales of the people once laid to rest here. The vastness and intricate design of these tombs hinted at the significance and respect these individuals commanded in their lifetimes.
Afternoon: The Birthplace of a Goddess – Aphrodite’s Rock and Beach
From the solemnity of the tombs, I transitioned to a site of mythology and beauty. Legend has it that Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, emerged from the sea at this very spot. As I approached, the iconic rock formation against the backdrop of the glistening Mediterranean was nothing short of mesmerising. The beach itself was a stretch of golden sands and turquoise waters, inviting one for a refreshing dip. And as legends go, it’s said that swimming around the Aphrodite Rock bestows eternal beauty. Well, who am I to argue with ancient lore?
Evening: A Feast for the Senses – Harbour Dinner with a Sea View
As day gave way to a crimson-tinted evening, the Paphos harbour, dotted with gently swaying yachts and fishing boats, beckoned. I found a cosy spot at one of the sea-facing tavernas. With the sound of gentle waves in the background and a panorama of the sun setting into the sea, it was time for a culinary journey. Fresh seafood, straight from the day’s catch, grilled to perfection and seasoned with local herbs, made for a delightful meal. Paired with a glass of chilled local white wine, it was a feast not just for the palate, but for the soul.
Reflecting on the day, from history to myths, from land to sea, Paphos had unfolded like a beautifully written prose, and I was its eager reader.
Day 5: Nature’s Best in Akamas Peninsula
Morning: Wild Rides and Hidden Trails – Jeep Safari or Hiking
Akamas Peninsula welcomed me with a tapestry of rugged landscapes, gorges, and wildlife. I had two options: to conquer its terrains on wheels or on foot. Opting for a jeep safari, I felt the adrenaline course through me as we maneuvered through off-beat trails, our vehicle shaking off dust and boulders alike. Every twist and turn brought forth vistas that seemed untouched by time. For those with a penchant for hiking, the paths here lead you through dense forests, allowing intimate encounters with the peninsula’s rich biodiversity.
Morning: Wild Rides and Hidden Trails – Jeep Safari or Hiking
The afternoon sun led us to the Blue Lagoon, Akamas’ crowning jewel. The iridescent blue waters set against a wild rocky backdrop looked like something straight out of a fantasy. The lagoon, renowned for its warm and crystal-clear waters, was a sanctuary for relaxation. Floating there, with the gentle lapping of waves against my body, the morning’s adventures seemed like a distant memory. The underwater world, visible from the surface, was alive with colourful marine life, making snorkelling a must-try for anyone visiting.
Evening: Night Under the Stars – Camp or Local Retreat
The evening held two choices for me: to become one with nature by camping under the celestial canopy or to find comfort in one of the local hotels. I chose the former. Setting up camp on one of Akamas’ secluded spots, the night sky overhead was a spectacle. Stars twinkled as if putting on a show just for me. The chirping of crickets and the distant hoot of an owl were the only sounds accompanying the serene darkness.
However, for those seeking more traditional comforts, Aphrodite’s Inn, nestled at the edge of the peninsula, comes highly recommended. With its rustic charm and warm Cypriot hospitality, it’s an oasis of comfort amidst the wild.
As I drifted into sleep, either on a cushioned bed or a camping mat, the adventures of Akamas promised to stay with me for a lifetime.
Day 6: Mountain Escape to Troodos
Morning: Serenity at Its Best – Visit to Kykkos Monastery
As the morning sun cast its golden hue on the towering Troodos Mountains, my journey took me to one of Cyprus’s most venerated sites: the Kykkos Monastery. With its shimmering gold details, intricate frescoes, and an aura of divine tranquillity, the monastery stands as a testament to Cyprus’s rich religious tapestry. Walking through its hallowed halls, I was enveloped in an atmosphere of reverence. The soft chanting of monks, the faint aroma of incense, and the stories etched on every mural and icon spoke of a faith that has withstood the test of time.
Afternoon: Reconnecting with Nature – Trail Walks Amidst the Green
Post the spiritual sojourn, Troodos beckoned me with its myriad nature trails. With every step, the mountainous terrain unravelled secrets of Cyprus’s diverse flora and fauna. The cool mountain air, the sound of gurgling streams, and the sight of endemic species like the Cyprus mouflon made it a nature lover’s paradise. Each trail, whether it was the Caledonia or Artemis, brought me closer to nature’s heart, teaching me to appreciate the smaller wonders of life.
Evening: A Culinary Voyage – Traditional Dinner in a Mountain Village
As dusk draped the Troodos range, I ventured into one of the quaint mountain villages. Lania, known for its cobblestone streets and vine-clad houses, was my choice for the evening. At the village square, I chanced upon Taverna Vouniotis, a family-run eatery renowned for its traditional Cypriot dishes. The evening began with a glass of locally produced wine, followed by dishes like ‘kleftiko’ (oven-baked lamb) and ‘halloumi’ (grilled cheese). Every bite was an explosion of flavours, a blend of age-old recipes and fresh mountain produce. As the night progressed, the village’s melodies, stories, and dances added to the enchantment, ensuring that Troodos left an indelible mark on my heart.
Day 7: Famagusta – The Forbidden Gem
Morning: Wandering Through Time – Ghost Town Exploration
As dawn broke, the mysterious aura of Famagusta beckoned. Entering the city, there was an eerie stillness that hinted at its turbulent past. The once bustling Varosha district, now a ghost town, stood frozen in time. Abandoned hotels, shops with 1970s advertisements, and homes left in haste told a poignant story of a city caught in geopolitical strife. As I walked its silent streets, the haunting beauty of Famagusta, with nature reclaiming its space amid derelict buildings, was a solemn reminder of the impermanence of human endeavours.
Afternoon: The Golden Embrace – Beaches of Famagusta
Post the melancholic exploration, the pristine beaches of Famagusta offered a contrasting vibe. The golden sands stretched out like a welcoming carpet, and the cerulean waters of the Mediterranean gently lapped at the shore. Each wave seemed to whisper tales of ancient mariners and hidden treasures. Lying on the beach, the warmth of the sun and the rhythmic ebb and flow of the waves provided a therapeutic retreat, recharging the spirit for further adventures.
Evening: Echoes of the Past – Stories from Locals at a Tavern
As evening descended, the town’s ambience changed from haunting to vibrant. Drawn by the aroma of grilled meat and the sound of laughter, I found myself at Taverna Famagusta. Amidst the clinking of glasses and traditional tunes, locals gathered, sharing stories of the city’s glorious past and hopeful future. Over plates of meze and glasses of ouzo, an elderly man, Yiannis, recounted tales of Famagusta’s heydays, of families that once lived harmoniously, and of hope for reunification. The evening wasn’t just about history; it was about the resilient spirit of the Cypriots, their love for their land, and their undying hope for peace.
Day 8: Ayia Napa’s Lively Spirit
Morning: Sun-kissed Moments at Nissi Beach
The sun rose, casting a golden hue over the soft sands of Nissi Beach. I arrived early to claim my spot on this paradise stretch, famed for its crystal-clear waters and electric vibe. Each footstep on the fine sand felt like a soft caress, and as I settled down with a book, the serene ambiance provided the perfect start to the day. Nearby, the sound of waves became a rhythmic backdrop, while beachgoers set up for a day of sun, sea, and relaxation. Occasionally, the distant beats of music hinted at the lively spirit of Ayia Napa that would come alive as the day progressed.
Afternoon: Discovering the Unknown – Sea Caves Adventure
Trading the comfort of the beach lounge, I geared up for an afternoon of exploration. The sea caves of Ayia Napa, sculpted over millennia by nature’s forces, awaited. As I kayaked towards the entrance, the shadowy interiors beckoned with whispers of hidden secrets. Inside, the play of light on the cave walls created mesmerising patterns, and the water’s gentle reflection added to the ethereal beauty. Each chamber held its own story — tales of hidden treasures and ancient mariners echoed in the stillness.
Evening: Dancing Under the Stars – Ayia Napa’s Vibrant Nightlife
As dusk settled, Ayia Napa transformed from a beach paradise to an electrifying party hub. The pulse of the town quickened with beats from countless bars and clubs. Drawn by the rhythm, I ventured into The Castle Club, where neon lights and energetic beats set the stage. Dancing amidst a crowd of fellow revellers, the night became a blur of music, laughter, and unforgettable moments. Sipping on a cocktail, the spirited ambiance encapsulated the essence of Ayia Napa — a place where the spirit of celebration knows no bounds.
Day 9: Relax in Protaras
Morning: A New Dawn at Cape Greco
The allure of witnessing a Cypriot sunrise drew me out of bed earlier than usual. With a cup of steaming coffee in hand, I made my way to the edge of Cape Greco, the easternmost point of Cyprus. As the first rays of sun peeked over the horizon, the sky was painted with a breath taking medley of oranges, pinks, and purples. The cliffs stood as silent witnesses to this daily miracle, and the shimmering waters below reflected the growing light. Birds started their morning chorus, and in that tranquil moment, I felt at one with nature, savouring the serenity that the dawn brought.
Afternoon: Underwater Wonders – Snorkelling in Crystal-Clear Waters
Leaving the majestic views of Cape Greco behind, I ventured to the beaches of Protaras, donning a snorkel and fins. The waters here were renowned for their clarity, and as I plunged in, a whole new world revealed itself. Schools of vibrantly coloured fish darted around, while more curious sea creatures approached, perhaps wondering who this new visitor was. Corals of various shapes and colours decorated the seabed, each an intricate masterpiece of nature. Floating weightlessly, I let the currents guide me, losing track of time in this mesmerising underwater realm.
Evening: A Culinary Delight – Alfresco Dining with Ocean Sounds
As the day’s adventures drew to a close, hunger pangs led me to a beachside taverna. With tables set right on the sand, and twinkling fairy lights overhead, the ambiance was nothing short of magical. The gentle crash of waves served as background music, while the salty breeze carried tantalising aromas from the kitchen. Opting for a seafood platter, every bite was a testament to the freshness of the catch – grilled octopus, succulent prawns, and perfectly cooked seabass. Paired with a glass of local white wine and the mesmerising view of the moonlit sea, it was the perfect way to wind down in Protaras.
Day 10: Farewell at Larnaca
Morning: Spirituality by the Salt Lake – Visit Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque
The final day in Cyprus began with a sense of anticipation, and as I approached the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque, the serenity of the place immediately enveloped me. Located by the picturesque Larnaca Salt Lake, the mosque, also known as the Mosque of Umm Haram, stood majestically against the landscape. Its reflection shimmering in the calm waters, and the distant calls of flamingos created a symphony of nature and spirituality. Inside, the intricate architecture and spiritual aura offered a peaceful space for reflection, allowing me to take a moment to appreciate the beauty and history of this sacred site.
Afternoon: Treasure Hunting – Last-Minute Shopping and Souvenirs
With the hours ticking down, I strolled through the vibrant streets of Larnaca. The bustling markets and quaint shops became a treasure trove, brimming with local handicrafts, delightful sweets, and handmade jewellery. Every corner seemed to offer a piece of Cyprus to take back home – from delicate lacework and pottery to bottles of Commandaria wine and halloumi cheese. As I picked up souvenirs, they weren’t just objects, but memories of the incredible journey I’d undertaken.
Evening: Sunset Reflections – Looking Back and Preparing for Departure
As evening approached, I found a cosy spot by the Larnaca promenade. The sun, now a deep hue of orange, was preparing to set, casting golden reflections on the waves. With the gentle sea breeze on my face, I took out my journal, reminiscing about the adventures of the past ten days. From the historic streets of Nicosia to the lively spirit of Ayia Napa, each day was a chapter of discovery and joy. While a sense of melancholy crept in with the realisation that this journey was ending, the memories created would forever remain etched in my heart. With bags packed and a heart full of gratitude, I prepared to bid adieu to the island of love, carrying with me tales of its enchanting allure.
Conclusion: An Odyssey of Memories
Reflecting on the trip
As the plane soared above the shimmering waters of the Mediterranean, a collage of memories flashed before my eyes, each moment of the past ten days painting a vivid hue of emotion and experience.
From the moment I first set foot in Larnaca, Cyprus whispered stories of its ancient past, echoing through the walls of Nicosia and the archaeological wonders of Paphos. The Tomb of the Kings felt like stepping into a time capsule, while the alluring stories behind Aphrodite’s Rock added layers of mystique to the island’s tales.
The allure of the forbidden streets of Famagusta was haunting yet oddly beautiful. It was a poignant reminder of history’s twists and turns, juxtaposed against the sun-kissed beaches where the waves sang songs of timeless tranquillity.
However, it wasn’t just the historic landmarks and pristine landscapes that left an indelible mark. It was also the flavours of Cypriot cuisine, the laughter and stories shared in mountain villages, and the exhilarating beat of Ayia Napa’s nightlife.
But if there was one memory that encapsulated the spirit of this journey, it was the serene sunset at Cape Greco in Protaras. As the sun cast its golden hue over the horizon, it felt as though time paused, allowing me to truly immerse in the sheer beauty and magic of Cyprus.
This island, with its unique blend of history, culture, and nature, had offered an adventure of a lifetime. As I journeyed from one corner to another, I didn’t just travel across locales; I journeyed through time, emotions, and myriad experiences. Each day brought with it a new story, a new lesson, and a new perspective.
In the end, what remained wasn’t just a travel itinerary but a narrative of personal growth, of connections made with locals, and of an island that, with its every breath, whispered tales of love, resilience, and beauty. As I looked down at the receding shores of Cyprus, I knew one thing for certain: this wasn’t a goodbye, but a promise to return.
Tips and Tricks for Your Cypriot Adventure
Embarking on a 10-day odyssey across Cyprus was more than just a holiday; it was an immersion into an enchanting world. For those of you considering the same journey, here are some pearls of wisdom I picked up along the way:
- Travel Light, Travel Right: Cyprus enjoys a Mediterranean climate, which means the days can get quite warm. Pack breathable, comfortable clothing, but always have a light jacket for the cooler evenings, especially in the mountains.
- Local Connections: Engage with the locals. They possess a treasure trove of stories, insights, and recommendations that you won’t find in any guidebook. Plus, Cypriots are known for their warmth and hospitality.
- Driving Around: If you’re confident in driving, consider renting a car. This gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. Just remember, they drive on the left side of the road!
- Stay Hydrated: Those sun-soaked days at the beach and explorations can take a toll. Always have a bottle of water handy.
- Taste the Tradition: Don’t shy away from the local taverns and eateries. Dive into meze feasts, taste the commandaria wine, and allow your taste buds to dance to the Cypriot culinary rhythm.
- Currency Savvy: While Cyprus is in the European Union and uses the Euro, it’s always a good idea to keep some cash for smaller establishments or remote areas.
- Respect the History: Places like Famagusta hold deep historical significance. It’s essential to approach such areas with sensitivity and respect.
- Footwear Matters: From sandy beaches to archaeological sites and nature trails, you’ll be walking a lot. Invest in good-quality, comfortable footwear.
- Stay Connected: Get a local SIM card if you plan to make local calls or need data. It’s more cost-effective and ensures you have connectivity even in more remote areas.
- Safety First: Cyprus is relatively safe, but always follow general travel safety guidelines. Secure your belongings, and be cautious in crowded areas.
In summary, this Cypriot journey will be as much an inner journey of discovery as an external exploration of the island’s beauty. Every corner of Cyprus has a story to tell, a delicacy to taste, and a view to take your breath away. With a little preparation and an open heart, your adventure will be one for the books.